Shoulder length sling climbing trad reddit. But they all have advantages and disadvantages.
Shoulder length sling climbing trad reddit Jul 5, 2020 · I also have 3 120cm cord slings for emergency Prusiks, for bailing, or if I run out of slings. 3-4 with doubles in the . From what I've read they are all great cams but they all have some small differences: BD Z4s: Rigid flex stem :) Good range for > 0. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. thus, you dont have to feel like you wasting a biner every time you clip a draw to the cam's sling. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. Time isn't the enemy; same as the deal with climbing ropes: per Pit Shubert's paper, it's USE, not AGE. The basic beginner trad rack is Black Diamond C4s . Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. See full list on outdoorgearlab. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. Some opinions about this would be great. ) I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. The C4, Drago For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. If you are running out the rope you will likely want even more. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Which I do see myself headed into. I found a 5. 9). My hands down favorite has been the DMM Puma - I love love love harnesses with a floating waist belt so you can center it no matter what layers you are wearing; it has substantial gear loops oriented toward the front, a full size fifth loop even in XS; ice clipper slots, and strikes a comfortable padding Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. 12 super hard stuff, but more into 5. Think you'd be grand with 18cm draws and alpine draws for the majority of all trad climbing. 3-1", a set of BD stoppers, 6 quickdraws, and 4 shoulder length slings or 4 alpine quickdraws. No pure trad pitches outside the course (little beginner-suitable rock for that around here) but maybe a few dozen pitches of mixed trad (runout pitons and bolted/natural features belays mostly) and passages of alpine I protected on gear. . For sport I have 18 Spirit keylock QDs. It would also eat up real estate on belt loops, making shoulder slings for gear more necessary. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. You’ll need 2 240s if that’s your main anchor material, one for the leader to build an anchor and one for the belayer’s anchor at the bottom. The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. UK trad climber here - hardly ever see bolted belays here so all natural. Know all 3, and pick one you are most comfortable with. I suppose clipping a sport draw might be marginally faster than clipping an alpine draw (since the rope end of the alpine draw is sometimes cocked around at a funny angle), but it's more than made up for by the versatility of the alpine draw. 5 to #3. On here sits all the extra stuff. Most alpine climbing you'd be doing shouldn't take more than a set of cams and a set of nuts unless you're doing big alpine rock routes like those in the Sierras. Only recently got a rack of my own but have done a fair few trad climbs. This gets you a "minimal single rack". There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. Mtnoutlet. Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. 15 votes, 40 comments. I'm always watching trad climbing videos where the leader doesn't use any additional extension on their cams than the sewn sling or using just a short stiff quick draw on their nut placements. 75 x4/c4 2x 1 c4 2x 2 c4 2x 3 c4 2x 4 c4 maybe 1 if you have the money set of nuts 6-12 slings set of racking biners enough for all your cams and one more for the set of nuts either two biners for each sling and make alpine draws or one per sling and use some quickdraws for shorter extension. Another alpine draw only person chiming in: sport draws are reserved exclusively for sport climbing on my rack. Nylon runners are multi-purposed and can be used for both sport and trad climbing. But they all have advantages and disadvantages. It would eat up the slings and make them less accessible for other pro if all of the nuts aren't needed, but slings don't weigh anything, so rack a few more. that way, if you want to extend a piece, you just clip that sling to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner on the sling. Honestly they are just a joy to clip and when I got into trad I just picked up some dyneema shoulder length slings and switched some of the biners off my sport draws onto them and made alpine draws. it's dangerous. When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. There are lots of wandering routes there. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. Cams (Black Diamond 0. com Sep 28, 2018 · I suspect you're relying on JHealy's test results on his (well used) skinny slings. 12s in a few places I've gone. Sometimes I add 2 extra draws or 2 double length slings depending on the route. A couple double-length runners, several shoulder-length slings, and a few draws can alleviate issues posed by secondary pulls, he says. When I started leading I had the same fears, I did the "ghetto" aid with nylon slings also. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. Get the Reddit app I like carrying 4-6 shoulder-length tied slings with water knots for descent He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. 6 multipitch not to far from me and I want to go The design of the totem is simply better imo. Going to multi pitch course this year. Just go do a couple 5. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Black Diamond is the gold standard for cams. Sup r/trad , I'm a mountaineer looking at getting into more trad climbing and escaping from the climbing gym into the real… While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. 6s and you’ll see. Upvote for extendable slings on the draws - I forgot to put that in my comment. Once the autoblock engages reliably, remove the sling/MMO, undo your catastrophe knot, and continue the LSD lower. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. while youre on thr subject, i highly recommend getting a few shoulder length slings and putting a single non locker on each one. 5-3 C4 cam size. If multipitch, those are high profile pieces that I would want on my rack and not wasted on the anchor. With a bunch of Moses, slings, and cams, you can rock climb hard. Alpine climbs, I always bring 60cm slings and a few 120s. 9 in trad? I am comfortable with most… 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. I also use those to make alpine draws with the skinny metolius shoulder length slings. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Mar 13, 2024 · For sport climbing, you want full-size, wear-resistant biners on stiff, beefy slings (think Petzl Express or Trango Smooth draw). (eventually double up on this size range when you get the cash) 1. 4 x4 1-2x 0. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic 1. Three bits of gear (ideally threads/slings or nuts in separate cracks) with screwgates attached. 4 or . I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. Occasionally it might get slightly run out but generally on 95+% of routes I feel this rack is enough for single pitch, multipitc Then I would set aside 4-6 shoulder length slings, each with a single non-locker clipped on, and have those slings over my shoulder. 1. I say start with 4 and add some if you need it. Before I ever led trad I had already "french freed" (plug in a cam and use it as a hand hold) my way through the crux of 9+ that was over my head after climbing all of 4 months. There are other cams that people may like better for whatever reason, but BD is a solid first investment. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. I have bought SO MANY harnesses in pursuit of this exact issue and also correct fit. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. 11b/c for sport and TR 5. Many trad climbs I’ve done, even multipitch was totally possible with single cams . The dual axle design is largely obsolete, but it's still a proven concept that does the job. But I have countered with my own test results on skinny slings which see very little use, and they were still going strong after 5+ years. Posted by u/jnaegle - 577 votes and 76 comments there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . That way, if you need to fully extend a cam, you can just pull the sling off your shoulder, and clip it to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner that was already on the sling. I've been trawling the internet for reviews and tests and most I could find were on OutdoorGearLab and UK Climbing Forums from some years ago. And yes we are scared of falling. Find really long draws can sometimes twist or lay funny on the rock, which can be frustrating clipping sport climbing. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments it depends on where you're climbing. 4 to 3). Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. rmhrmopimoyxmzkhhzvzsycrcnitlhvmyplgwfvjygabdfmccodbbontdtwtbcxjjifxhrkagnxaicshapg